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From: "Ted Wilds"
Subject: 8UHP set up
Date: Monday, March 13, 2000 2:09 PM
I have been asked for how I set up my Raptors.
This post is aimed at the relatively newcomer to
either helicopters, computer radios or both.
Futaba Super 8, Futaba 8 radios and applies with
minor changes to other systems. Most experienced
users have their own pet systems that work for
them.
The Raptor linkages as shown in the manual are
reasonably close except for the links between the
swashplate and the rotor head which will be
shorter than 105 mm. See below.
My Raptors are pretty similar in electronics.
Futaba 9202 or 3001 on everything except tail, HH
gyros such as Arcamax 2700, CSM 540 and a Futaba
GY501 all with either 2700G, 8700G or Futaba 9205
servos.
Tail Rotor servos on Rear Boom Mounts.
The following is the set up that I use on Raptors,
and most any others, using a Futaba 8UH* or 8UH*S
transmitter and 8 channel receiver, mostly Futaba
servos. Minor changes in Throttle curves are
required for Long Boom, Long Blade OS .46
conversions.
It presumes that you own a pitch gauge and flybar
lock and a carpenter's string level to level the
flybar. A flybar lock for a Raptor can be whittled
from two halves of a spring type wooden clothes
pin and inserted between the bottom of the flybar
carrier and
the plastic of the head. Another useful tool is
Miniature Aircraft's #0512 Swashplate Lock that
lets you make sure that the swashplate is level
and locked 90 degrees to the mast in all
directions.
Procedure:
With the system turned ON (transmitter then
receiver!):
Make sure that all transmitter trims are centered.
Revos, Program Mixes and Offsets are INHibited or
turned off.
Make sure that the servos are set to work in the
proper direction. In other words, Right cyclic
tilts the swashplate tilts right, Forward cyclic
tilts the swashplate forward, Up Throttle and Up
Pitch causes the pitch of the main blades to
increase and the Throttle rod moves to the rear.
Right Rudder should move the Tail Rotor control
rod forward. Reverse any servo that works in the
opposite direction. JR and HiTech (?) are reversed
from Futaba.
Set all ATVs to 100%
Make sure that ALL of the Pitch and Throttle
curves are linear. (0, 25, 50, 75, 100%.) Normal,
Idle Ups 1 and 2 and Hold.
Make sure that the arms of all the servos are
centered at mid-stick. Use a different arm on a
star wheel if the arm is not centered at
mid-stick. Different arms will be centered
slightly differently.
I do prefer to physically reverse the Pitch Servo
on the Raptor and use the Inner Ball position on
the Collective Pitch Arm and the Outer holes for
the balls on the mixer arms. This allows full
Collective and Cyclic Pitch changes.
With all of the lower links to the swashplate
disconnected, set the swashplate level and the
built-in pitch guide on the side of the Raptor
points to the Zero Pitch mark. The lower links to
the swashplate on each side should be as per the
manual.
Adjust the links on the Aileron, Elevator and
Pitch servo links slightly so that the swashplate
is still level when everything is centered and
the links reconnected. Remove the swashplate lock
if one is used.
With the link to the pitch servo disconnected at
either
end:
Physically move the Collective Pitch Arm all the
way up and
measure the maximum pitch. Do the same with the
Arm all the way down. These two figures
should be close to the same: + / - ten or eleven
degrees. If they are unequal, adjust both long
links from the head to the swashplate plate until
the
number come close to matching. They should wind up
near 102 mm center to center of the links.
Now with the link to the Pitch servo reconnected
and the stick centered your blades should be at or
close to Zero Degrees. Your Pitch curve should be
similar to:
0% = -10, 25%=-5.5, 50%= Zero, 75%=+5.5, 100% =
+10
degrees. Adjust the Pitch ATVs as necessary to
prevent binding or to limit the end points to +
/ - 10 degrees.
This procedure will be a basic starting point from
which I set up the flight modes. It applies to
almost any helicopter and skill level.
PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING!!!!!!!
Suggested Pitch and Throttle settings for learning
to hover:
Normal Pitch: 45%, 50%, 70%, 75% and 80%
Normal Throttle: (Idle) 25%, 50%, 70% 100%
Both Idle Ups and Revos all INHibited
For Fast Forward Fight level of skills and beyond
I find that the following are solid and enduring.
I do like Zero Pitch at mid-stick and the 3/4
points to be the same or close in all flight
modes. This eliminates the helicopter from jumping
around as you switch modes:
With the above mechanical and servo set ups, here
is what is on my 8UHPS for my Raptors with very
minor variations to allow for engine in use,
blades, exhaust system and fuels.
Pitch Normal and Pitch Hold: 30%, 40%, 50%, 70%
and 100%
Pitch Idle Up 1: 25%, 40%, 50%, 70% and 85%
Pitch Idle Up 2: 15%, 30%, 50%, 70% and 85% (-8,
0, +8)
Throttle Normal: (idle) 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%
Throttle Idle Up 1: 75%, 65%, 50%, 75%, 100%
Throttle Idle Up 2: 100%, 70%, 55%, 70%, 100%
Throttle Hold: Just below clutch engage speed,
Rudder Offset about -10%
Program Mix 1: AIL -> THR, +30%/-30%, Link Off,
Trim Off, OFST 0, SW-E C/DN.
Program Mix 2: ELE ->THR, +30% /-30%, Link Off.
Trim Off, OFST 0, SW-E C/DN
The 30%s here will vary with engines and blades
and mufflers.
The purpose is to add throttle during rolls,
tumbles etc.
The throttle servo seldom if ever binds because I
seldom use full collective and cyclic at the same
time.
Cyclic Throws: (High Rates at 100%)
The normal check on the cyclic throws is to do
the following:
With the Flybar locked level and Zero Pitch set
with the collective stick: (don't touch it again)
Roll (aileron) Cyclic:
With the main blades over nose and tail, adjust
AIL ATV so that full throw is + / - 6 degrees.
With stock servo arm lengths the settings will be
about 90%
Pitch (elevator) Cyclic:
With the Flybar over nose and tail, adjust ELE ATV
so that full throw is + / - 6 degrees.
Again ATVs will approximate 90%.
(For faster cyclic action, use lighter Paddles )
Other transmitter settings:
On PCM: F/S settings AIL 0, ELE 0, THR set at
30%, PIT set at +1 degree. RUD and GYR Normal
EXPOs: All -10% on UP and -30% on Down
D/Rs: All 100% on up and 75% on down
Gyro ATV, using an Arcamax 2700 and 2700 servo:
60% on HH and 45% on Normal depending on the pot
setting on the
side of the gyro.
TH-CUT: -15%, SET at 21%, SW-H DOWN
REVO settings:
Since I use Heading Hold 95% of the time my REVOs
are all INHibited.
For non-HH gyros a basic setting of
-20%, -10%, 0 , +10% and +20% for REVO Normal,
and +20%, +10%, 0% , +10% and +20% for REVO Idle
Up 2 are starting points.
Do NOT use the defaults in REVO. They are
"surprising".
If you have a question or comment, please e-mail me directly. tedwilds@ktc.com
thru mid-May then tedwilds@aol.com for the summer. (ED Note: Ted Wilds
passed away suddenly after a battle with cancer. This setup was one of many
helpful messages he send out over the Net. I will miss him. A great loss for
the hobby.)
These settings should give you a good starting
point. As you become more familiar with the radio
and helicopter you will want to develop your own
techniques. I do recommend that you DO have a good
pitch gauge and the Swashplate tool from Miniature
Aircraft. It allows you to set up each helicopter
exactly the same way as well as making your
initial set up accurately.
Note: Permission to distribute this Ted Wilds item, unedited, is granted. An
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