Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 and 50

TT Raptor 30/50 Supplemental Assembly Manual - Ver 4.2 - 29 April 2002

Legal BS:
Author and Contributors are not resposible for anything.

Known Trouble Spots

1. The Tank may leak around the black rubber seal. Inspect and seal with silicone or Goop if necessary.
2. There was a patch of clutches with metalurgical and machining flaws. The clutch shoes break and the head will spin while the engine idles.
3. The clutch shoe to liner gap is excessive on some prebuild models. It should be 0.25mm (I think) on each side or a businesscard thickness wide.
4. The clutch had a design flaw. See Section 9 for the fix.
5. The fuel tank may rub on the back bottom of the frames. Look for chafing marks and insert tape and/or relief/sand the frame members.
6. The two long setscrews in the tailrotor hub may pull out becaue of faulty assembly. Disassemble and reloctite everything. Even better get the solid tailhub. The setscrews align in the two filled holes on the tail rotor shaft and must be filed to a point.
7. Ensure the two boom support to main frame and boom support to horizontal fin clamp screws do not penetrate into the fueltank sidewall or tailboom. Add a washer or cut off the tip of each screw (R30 only).
8. Do not use the built in Pitch gage for initial setup as it's accuracy depends on correct linkage length. Buy a pitch gage, you will need it again.
9. If you are using an aftermarket ARK muffler, DO NOT add an exhaust extension to it. (See the Raptor pics on what not to to). The metal pipe sticking out the back is unsupported for the last four inches and has holes drilled into it. It will break off 1/4 in from the metal part of the muffler.

Read this before flying the ARF version of the Raptor!

1. Lube the swashplate with teflon oil. Lube the mainshaft lightly with teflon oil
2. Check and lube all bearings with teflon oil if required
3. Turn the landing skid braces around for better ground handling
4. Clean and loctite the carb control lever. Caution, do not overtighten nut as the carb barrel threads may strip. Loctite the carb barrel retaining screw.
5. Check that the long bolt holding the R30 stock muffler (5) together is tight. Rotate exhaust outlet so exhaust gasses clear the skit and frames.
6. Steps 16 and subsequent apply to the ARF version.
7. Here is a Diagram to set up the linkages for 3d. Courtesy of ACE.

Step 1 - Fuel Tank Assembly

• The fuel line supplied in the kit is junk. Remove the one in the prebuild tank and the extra in the bag and discard it. Medium size line for external connections and the black hayes line or small blue silicone for the internal tank line is a good choice. The internal tank line must be flexible enough to flop around during flight.
• UNIFLOW tank setup is optional but several reports of engines leaning as the tank goes empty suggest it as a good idea.
• Clean out the tank of contaminants.
• Seal the tank (and uniflow line) with sealant to prevent leaks.
Goop works fine.


Step 2 - Clutch Bell Assembly

• In kits now manufactured the clutch bell bearing is already installed. Lubricate it if required.
• For the Top bearing (1) set the bearing on wood with a hole sized to accommodate the pinion gear (4) and gently hammer the pinion into the bearing. Use a tiny amount of loctite.
• Lubricate the Pinion Gear (4) and the inside threads of the clutch bell (3). Do not use loctite so they can be unscrewed and the clutch bell removed without taking the frames apart.
• The kits now come with a clutch shim so the fan hub mod in step 9 is no longer necessary.
• The clutch liner is already glued in the bell. Or it is supposed to be. Better check and make sure. Some liners still have too much clearance around the clutch and contribute to clutch failure. If the gap is too big replace the clutch liner as below.
• Sand and clean the inside of the clutch bell (4) before gluing in the liner (5). Run ONE strip of electrical tape around the clutch (see step 9), install the Startshaft (see step 3) and slide the clutch bell over the clutch to press the liner in place as the glue cures.
• Use either JB Weld or Epoxy to glue the liner in place. Sand the liner joint after the glue sets.
• The liner is on the thin side (or the clutch bell is too thick) so the gap between the clutch shoes and the liner may be too big causing the clutch shoes to fatigue and break off. A thin sheet of paper glued between the liner and the bell can reduce the gap. The gap should be the thickness of business card paper.



Step 3 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 1

• A electrical screwdriver is handy to screw in all the phillips head screws (1) but DO NOT overtorque the screws. A tiny dap of CA to the screws will prevent them from backing out.
• The metal frame standoffs are a great, inexpensive upgrade that does away with the phillips head screws and replaces them with M3 bolts. Loctite those bolts.
• Clean and loctite pins (7) into the guide pulley bearings (11).
• Check and lube the bearings with teflon oil if required.
• Use a tiny amount of thin CA to fix the bearings (2, 3) into the holders on one side of the mainframe.
• Clean and loctite the start shaft (13) into the clutch bell bearing and top start shaft bearing (2).
• Temporarily screw in the engine assembly from step 9 to align the start shaft bearings (2), start shaft and the start adapter (14).
• Clean and loctite the setscrews (6) into the start adaptor (14). Ensure the setscrews (6) engage the machined flats on the start shaft (13).
• The fuel tank may rub on the back of the frames. Look for chafing marks and insert tape and/or relief the frame members by sanding the sharp edges.
• The servo frame (8) and fuel tank can be installed later for easier handling.



Step 4 - Main Drive Gear Assembly

• Clean screws (1) before using loctite.
• Tighten screws (1) evenly to prevent deforming the plastic gears (4, 5).
• Use thin teflon oil and lube the one-way bearing inside the housing (6).
• The snaprings are very hard to put on the one way clutch shaft (6) and may break. Consider using snapring pliers for this task. Alternatively, insert two small screws through the snapring holes and use pliers to pull them apart enough to slip over the One Way Clutch Shaft (6).
• Replacement snap rings are available at auto parts stores. 5/8in external type.
• Ensure the clutch shaft (6) turns freely after installing the snap rings. Gently tab on the top and bottom of the One Way Clutch Shaft (6) with a small hammer to seat the snaprings cleanly. Lube with teflon oil.
Balance assy after all parts are put together.


Step 5 - Washout Assembly

• Ensure washout base (9) is tabered side down for proper installation of control levers (7).
• A metal washout base is available and a good, inexpensive upgrade that reduces slop in the head linkage.
• For more cyclic control, install the balls (6, 1) into the outer holes of the control levers (7).
• Use CA to fix screws (2) into the hub.
• Use CA to fix screws (1) into arms, flanged side of linkage balls (6) goes toward levers (7).
• Loctite screws (2) and spacers (4) to bearings
• Levers (7) and arms (8) should move freely without binding.
• Some Raptors can exhibit the so called Woof and Poof syndrome. The blades go out of track near the zero degree pitch position. Aside from ensuring that the entire pitch control linkage is tight and slop free, the Head Flip could provide a posible cure.

Step 6 - Main frame Assembly - Part 2

• The assembly picture is a big mess. Do one part at a time and trial fit components for better visualization. Look at pages 9 and 31 to assist in locating and orienting of parts.
1. Assemble elevator control arm (15) webbing down and links (14, 12).
2. Install balls and screws (13, 5) on pitch control arm (22), aileron levers (17). Fix with CA.
3. Ensure proper location of balls (13) on aileron control levers (17).
4. Screw (4) is longer than the other ball screws (5) because TWO balls go into the elevator control lever (21).
5. For advanced pilots the inner location of the ball on the pitch control arm (22) will give a 20 deg pitch window. Novices may use the outer location.
6. Install pitch control arm (22) and elevator control arm (15) into frames with hardware (2, 10, 8 / 3, 9, 7, 21,7, 11, 10, 8) don't forget the CA on screw (2). Loctite bearings (7, 8) and spacers (9, 10) to screws (1, 2, 3).
7. Don't forget the little washer (11) on the elevator control lever.
8. Align elevator control lever (21) perpendicular to the elevator control arm (15) - straight down. Ensure that it is installed with the arm towards the frame.
9. Assemble control levers (17) and associated hardware (1,9,7,5,13) and install on pitch arm (22). Don't forget the CA on screw (1) and the loctite between the spacers (9), screws (1) and bearings (7).
• Check that the pitch control arm clears the raised pitch gage markings. Trim the raised marks for clearance.
• The linkage must move freely and fall under it's own weight.
• Look closely at the TT ball links. The writing on the link must face OUTWARD away from the ball when clicking on the link. They are one way links, adjustments are one full turn only.
• Rocket City 77E links are a great, higher quality alternative that clip on either way. You need a bag of 25 to replace all the TT links on a Raptor.
• If the links (19) are too tight on the balls (13) gently squeeze the link on the ball with needlenose pliers or use a commercially available link trimming tool.



Step 7 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 3

• Clean and polish mainshaft.
• Use a small amount of loctite to fix the mainshaft to the mainshaft bearings.
• Do not overtighten the bottom Jesus bolt (1) as this may distort the one way bearing. A slipper clutch setup is available which gives tailrotor control during autorotations and removes any up and down movement of the maingear. This can prevent the engine from encountering the so called Wah-wahs during descents.
• It is a good idea to replace the bottom Jesus bolt (1) with a hardened, shouldered version. This is not required with the slipper clutch installation.
• Loctite the setscrews (3) in the main shaft lock ring (6).
• Lube the swashplate (9) with teflon oil.
• Lube the mainshaft (7) lightly with teflon oil.
• Ensure swashplate (9) and washout assembly (8) slide smoothly on mainshaft (7).
• Linkages must move freely without drag.



Step 8 - Landing Skid Assembly

• Turn the skid braces (3) around for better ground handling.
• Glue in the skit end caps to prevent loosing them.
• On the R50 do not install the gear yet because the CF base plate goes on first and then the engine can't be installed.
  

Step 9 - Engine Assembly

• Temorarily bolt the fan (3) and clutch (2) assy together to balance them as a unit prior to installation.
• Inspect the clutch for any obvious machining flaws.


• There is/was a design flaw with the clutch. If you look close, you will see the two parts of the clutch that move outward to engage the clutch lining (the shoes) catch on the fanhub. This can fatique the metal and cause the two shoes to break off. To fix this TT now includes a clutch shim that goes between the clutch and the fan.
  
• Note that the fan (3) is setup to accept the magnets for the GV-1 governor.
• The fan SCREWS on, don't hammer it down (or up if trying to remove).
• Clean and loctite engine crankshaft nut.
• Instead of a piston lock, remove engine backplate and jam a soft toothbrush handle into the crankshaft to tighten the engine nut. Or remove the carburator and stick the toothbrush handle in there.
• Clean and loctite clutch screws (1).
• Clean and loctite the carb control lever. Caution, do not overtighten nut as the carb barrel threads may strip. Loctite the carb retaining screw, it's really hard to find after it falls out in flight.
• Check carburator seating and straightness. Loctite carb retaining nut.
• Lube the one way bearing in the clutch (2) with teflon oil.
• Check all engine fasteners for security.
• Prelube engine with light oil through the carb and exhaust port. DO NOT use teflon oil for this because it will destroy the glowplug element.



Step 10 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 4

• Install fuel line prior to installing engine/clutch assembly.
• The R50 uses a different engine mount. Since the TT50/OS50 is longer than the 30 size engines, the back of the engine hangs below the bottom of the mainframes.
• Loctite the engine to engine mount screws (1) and add washers.
• Ensure that washers (3) are installed on screws (1). Use loctite.
• Do not forget to install a gasket between the engine and muffler (5). Alternatively use a thin coat of 5 minute epoxy.
• Loctite muffler retaining screws (2). Retighten screws after engine is warmed up on first flight. Even better, use longer bolts and install nuts on the muffler side.
• Check that the long bolt holding the 30 muffler (5) together is tight. Rotate exhaust outlet so exhaust gasses clear the skit and frames.
• The stock 30 size TT muffler is a joke. It is highly recommended that a suitable 'real' muffler be installed. TTs upgrade muffler or similar competing products are much quieter and provide more power. The muffler included with the R50 is the TT upgrade muffler and works very well.
• On R50s now is the time to install the landing gear. Don't forget the CF stiffner. It goes below the mainframe and above the landing gear legs.
• With the CF frame stiffner the included selfthreading phillips head screws are a little short. Use M3 bolts and nyloc nuts instead. If you look close, the mainframes have recesses for the nuts already molded in.
• With the landing gear angled back ground handling will be improved.
  

  Step 11 - Main Rotor Head Assembly

• If you are going to do the Head Flip now would be a good time to read the page and print out the picture.
• Look at pictures on pages 12 and 31 for a visualization of the completed assembly.
• If there is some flash on the inside of the Main Rotor Hub (30) use an Xacto knife to remove
• Install all the balls (31) and screws (3). Secure with CA.
• Lubricate the rubber dampeners (27) during installation. Use non petroleum oil for this or the dampeners will deteriorate. Cooking oil is ok.
• Grease the thrust bearings (32) and ensure the larger holed washer goes to the inside of the blade grip. To figure out which is the larger washer, slide on one at a time on the spindle (24) and wiggle back and forth. The two that wiggle more have the larger holes.
• The two screws (6) in the main blade grip ends do not bottom out against the bearings which then can move around in the bladegrip (23). Shave off the plastic around the screwhole to allow the scew (6) to fully seat against the bearing (11). Use CA to fix inthe screws (6).
• CAUTION - On earlier manuals the bearing (8) and flybar arm bushing (20) are MISLABELED. The bearing is actually the round thing going into the flybar seesaw hub (21) and the flybar arm bushing goes into the flybar control arm (19). On new kits the two bearings (8) are already installed in the Seesaw hub (21).
• There are two flats ground into the flybar (18) for the flybar arm setscrews (4). Make sure the screws (4) are engaging the flats and use loctite.
• Loctite spacers (13, 14) and screws (1, 2) to bearings (9, 14).
• Don't forget the washer (16) in the mixing lever (22) bearings or the arms will hit screw (2).
• The paddles (17) must be aligned parallel to the flybar control arms (19) and each other. Use a kitchen or bathroom sink to aid in alignment.
• Tightening the screws (2) on top of the main rotor hub to flybar seesaw hub may distort and bind the plastic. Two very thin washer may help but ensure the screws (2) don't foul the mixing levers (9)
• The doublelink (26) is very tight on the balls (3) and fragile. Use caution in fitting.
• Disconnect all links to the flybar and balance to flybar by removing material from the heavy paddle.
• Balance the entire head on a high point balancer.



Step 12 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 5

• The linkage (4, 5) should be right about 100mm to 105mm long.
• If you are into radical flying, it may be a good idea to replace bolt (1) with a special hardened, shouldered version.
• Some plastic heads may have the mainshaft hole a little oversize and it can wobble on the mast. Take some medium CA on your finger and coat the top of the mainshaft before installing the main rotor head.

  Step 13 - Tail Unit Assembly

• In the new kits the tail rotor drive pulley (24) is already installed, but the thin side of the pulley is not.
• It is important that the smaller half of the Tail Pulley Set (P/N BK0051 or reference #25 on step 13) is installed INTO the pulley. The LONGER flange goes outward to take up slack in the tailgearbox.
• There are two sets of holes in the tail rotor shaft (23). The open hole is for the pin (14), the filled hole is for the setscrews (5) on the hub (18).
• The Pin (14) can be a very tight fit in the tail rotor shaft. Try tapering and sanding the pin for a tight but not loose fit. Use large pliers to press the pin into place. Then install a M3 setscrew into the tailshaft to hold the pin in. Loctite that setscrew which is not shown in the TT manual but included in one of the bags-o-parts.
• Loctite bearing (7) to the tailrotor shaft.
• Remove any burrs from tail pitch control slide bushing to enable smooth sliding
• Install the ball (28) and screw (4) before installing tail pitch control slider (21) on shaft. Use CA to fix.
• There is a new tail pitch control fork (20) has reinforced arms. Really old kits have straight arms which may break. Buy a new one or a pretty metal upgrade.
• On both the R30 and R50 the two setscrews (5) have blunt ends. This will not allow them to seat in the two holes in the tailshaft (23). Use a file or dremel tool to make the ends pointy.
• Loctite the two long setscrews (5) into the tailrotor hub. The setscrews align in the two filled holes on the tail rotor shaft (23). Use lots of loctite and don't overtorque and strip the setscrews (5). These are a high failure item and the aftermarket solid hub for the R30 is highly recommended.
• Use a little loctite to fix bearings (8) to setscrews (5).
• The M3 locknuts (6) must be installed prior to fitting the blade holder halves (16, 17) together.
• Use CA to fix the blade holder screws (2).
• Don't forget the washer (15) on the pitch control lever (26). If the plastic strips out, use a longer M3x25 screw and add a M3 locknut on top.
• For peace of mind, there are aftermarket solid hubs available which provide a much more secure tail. Also, the Raptor 60 tail can be installed on the 30.
• The R50 comes with the R60 tailhub. Assembly is essentially the same as the R30 except the tailhub (PV0151) is a different design and the blade grips (PV0148) are longer. This setup is reliable.
  

  Step 14 - Tail Boom Assembly

• The R50 boom (11), belt (13), supports (10) and linkage (14) are longer. The boom supports are shorter versions of the R60 ones. Glue in the ends and secure with the small screws.
• The long slots in the tailboom go to the front.
• The linkage holes in the rod guides (12) are sometimes too small. Use a drill and increase their size until the linkage slides without resistance.
• The rod guides (12) are too big for the boom. Use one wrap of electrical tape around the boom or cut the guides and CA to the boom. Don't CA the guides until linkage routing is adjusted in step 16
• The boom (11) can be too thin for the boom holders in the main frame. One layer of electrical tape will assure a tight fit and prevent the belt from loosening up.
• Be careful inserting the belt into the boom to prevent cuts on the sharp boom edges which should be deburred.
• The boom must be inserted into the tail unit housings (6) to engage the alignment taps before the two housings are joined.
• Don't forget to insert the tail idle pulley as the two tail unit housings (6) are joined.
• Loctite bearing (5) to the tail rotor shaft.
• Do not tighten the following screws until belt tension has been adjusted in Step 15. The horizontal fin (8) may be loose on the tailboom even after the screws (3) on top are fully tightend. Again, a layer of electrical tape will ensure the required tight fit. Leaving this part too loose will severely degrade the amount of useable gyro gain.
• The two screws (3) in the side of the Horizontal fin holding the R30 boom supports (10) will bite into the boom. This may cause radio interference. Shorten the screws by 2mm each or add a few washers.
The R50 supports use fatter ends and do not require shortening of the screws.



Step 15 - Main Frame Assembly - Part 6

• Balance the tailblades prior to installation. Tighten the tailblade bolts (1) so the tailblades can still move with light finger pressure.
• Ensure the two screws (3) do not penetrate into the fueltank sidewall. Add a washer or cut off the tip of each screw. The R50 with it's fatter support ends does not require any mods.
• The belt can't be too tight (binding in the auto hub) or too loose (belt slap in boom). For a 'pretty close' adjustment make sure the tailboom is loose, hold the heli by the tailgearbox, wiggle it a little and then tighten the boomholder bolts.
• After belt tension adjustment, tighten the horizontal fin / boom support clamps.
• Make sure the tail rotor rotates in the correct direction. If the main mast is turned clockwise, the forward tail blade holder should move upward into the mainrotor downdraft.



Step 16 - Servo Installation - Part 1

• Install the ball link (10) after sliding the control rod through the frame supports but before joining the forward and aft control linkages.
• Loctite the setscrews (4) in the tail control rod joint (8).
• Make sure the joint (8) does not contact the tail boom. Bent the control rod if necessary.
• Rotate the control rod guides on the boom for minimal control rod movement resistance. Unless they are very hard to move, use a little CA to fix them to the tailboom after adjustment.
• Ensure the brass eyelids and rubber mounts are installed on each servo for vibration insulation. Futaba and JR servos have bigger brass eyelids than the Hitec servos. The supplied TT screws may not fit through the Hitec brass. The TT screws must be used however, because the servo tray holes are made for that size screw.
• There was a suggestion to offset the roll (aileron) servo balls to compensate for the linkage not being perpendicular. Upon closer inspection this is unnecessary. The roll bellcranks are not angled at 90 degrees. This eliminates any interaction at the servo wheel. Kudos to Mr. Taya for thinking of this.
• Ensure all linkages are moving freely
.



Step 17 - Servo Installation - Part 2

• If the outer ball location is used on the pitch control arm is used, install the servo as shown in the instructions. For the inner location, turn the servo and servo arm 180 deg for proper alignment of the pitch control rod (so that the wheel is in the front half of the servo, instead of the back half). The pitchrod should run as close to 90deg to both the servo arm and the pitcharm ball.
• In the outer location the pitch range is restricted to about 10 degrees and when properly set will yield a -1 to +9 degree range. This is done on purpose and is the recommended pitch setup for novices learning to hover.
• The pitch control rod for the inner ball location should be 55mm in length.
• The ball on the pitch servo arm should be 13 to 15mm out for +12 and -9 pitch range.
• Adjust the length of the throttle linkage for even ATV limits on high and low throttle
.


Step 18 - Main Rotor Assembly

• WARNING - Remove the heatshrink covering under the bladeroots and use CA to glue on the root reinforcements. Always do this, blade failure in flight will mean...
  the total destruction of your heli.
• The heatshrink may be loose from the factory. Reshrink the covering before first flight.
• The heatshrink is fragile and will shred at the slightest provocation or too high rotor rpm. Recover the blades with stick on covering and seal exposed wood with thin CA.
• Balance the blades
. See the Hints section for a cheap / quick / easy way.


Step 19 - Receiver / Gyro Installation

• Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber and mount securely to the front tray with rubberbands or velcro.
• Clean the gyro mounting surfaces with alcohol prior to applying the double sided tape (2). It doesn't matter where on the heli you put the gyro. It should be as vibration free and rigid as possible. Up front on the little shelf in front of the pitch arm or on the gyro platform behind the mainmast is fine.
• Route the gyro wires and antenna carefully to avoid chafing and cutting. Secure with velcro or tiewraps.
• Do not overtighten the tiewraps or the wires may be cut.
• Optionally use a base loaded stub antenna mounted to a landing skit brace.
  

  Step 20 - Body / Canopy Assembly

• Use a little Goop to fix the body clips (5, 6) to the canopy along with the screws (2).
• The canopy clip on the bottom can slip off during heavy maneuvering. Install a small button head screw in the front landing gear brace and drill a corresponding hole in the canopy clip.
• You will need a remote glow starter wire or the canopy must be removed for engine starts.
• Predrill the screwholes in the canopy and body.
• The canopy must be cleaned with solvent prior to applying the decals or they will peel off. Optionally seal the edges of the decals with thin CA.
• You can paint the canopy by following these steps:
1. Sand the entire canopy with 100 grit sandpaper.
2. Sand the canopy with 400 grit sandpaper
3. Paint with flexible bumper primer
4. Sand with 600 wet or dry
5. Paint with flexible bumper primer
6. Sand with 600 wet or dry
7. Paint with your favorite colors
8. Apply decals and fuel proof clearcoat

Raptor Mods and Upgrades

Raptor Setup for the Futaba 8U by Ted Wilds

Special Engine Section

Or 'So Your TT36 Sucks'

1. The TT36 is up to it's third different idle needle and second generation carb. Try a different needle from ace.
2. Install the optional brass headshim. Retighten all bolts on engine.
3. Install a cooling shroud extension to deflect air over the entire cooling fins of the cylinder head.
4. Remove the carb and unscrew the main needle valve. Clean the passages and remainder of carb with alcohol to remove contaminants. Reassemble.
5. Ensure the carb is fully seated on the engine. The O ring must be compressed.
6. Loctite the carb retaining nut and throttle barrel screw.
7. The main needle valve leaks. Remove the metal clip that prevents the needle valve from rotating. Slip a 1/2 in long piece of fuel tubing over the carb receptable and the needle valve.
8. Use a Enya#3 or OS#8 plug.
9. Using 15% fuel, turn out the main needle valve 2.5 turns from fully closed. Do not adjust the idle mixture until the high end is satisfactory.



10. The factory R30 muffler has no internal baffles and provides minimal pressure to the fuel tank. Open the muffler by unscrewing the long bolt. Take a 3/4 in diameter washer and install it with two 3 mm lock nuts on the long bolt aft of the pressure fitting. Reassemble muffler. Lean the main needle about 1/2 turn to compensate for the additional pressure.
11. Check to make sure the main fuel tank leaks only a small amount.
12. It's a 50/50 crapshoot wether you get a good TT36. If all else fails sell the TT and buy an OS32SXH.

Fritz's Personal Raptor 50

Courtesy of Heliproz and Mastercard.
I initially wanted to build it completely stock but I can't ever leave things alone. Here are the specs for my personal R50. Upgrades and changes and the reasons why they were done follow.

• Std. Raptor 50 kit, OS50SXH. Includes the BB upgrade, metal swashplate, TT50 muffler, CF frame brace and large fuel tank.
• Added metal A arms - U$10 (because I installed mine wrong and broke them. Me! The author of the supplemental guide. Aughhh!
• Metal pitcharm - U$24 (because I can feel the plastic one flex in high collective manouvers.)
• Rocket City 77E ball links. - U$10 (the stock TT links are one way and break once in a while.)
• Boomstrike.com vinyl graphics - U$28 (gotta be different and I'm too lazy to paint the canopy.)
• Tail servo boom mount - U$1 (homemade out of 1/4 in plywood, uses the factory pushrod.)
• Heliproz slipper clutch - U$20 (It gets rid of the wahwahs and with the 600mm blades autos are acceptable with a driven tail.)
• Shouldered Jesus bolt - U$1 (I'd be a dummy not to do this.)
• Head flip mod - U$2 (I don't even want to hear about the woof and poof syndrome.)
• KSJ Yellow paddles - U$8 (for faster cyclic response, modded by removing 5mm off off the leading edge.)
• Funkey CF blades - U$60 (I'm good enough now to be able to tell the difference between woodies and CF blades.)
• Heliproz header tank - U$12 (always had one plus the purple bracket looks cool.)
• Tailfin extension - U$1 (The std vertical fin is too short to keep the tailrotor out of the grass. A piece of the pushrod cut off when installing the tail servo mount is bent into shape and screwed/ziptied to the bottom of the fin.)

Coming soon: Ultra basic radio setup

Also coming: Pictures (awaiting new digital camera)

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