Thunder Tiger Raptor 60 SE / V2

Raptor 60 Supplemental Assembly Manual v1.6 - 15 September 2001

Disclaimer: Not affiliated with TT/ACE, no guaranties, no promises, use everything at your own risk.

Info on the new Raptor 90

• Specification of the Raptor 60V2:
• Name: Raptor 60
• Engine: .60~.90
• Full Length of fuselage: 1370 mm / 53.94 in
• Full width of Fuselage: 190 mm / 7.48 in
• Total height : 465 mm / 18.3 in
• Main Rotor Dia: 1380 ~1540 mm (.50~.60) / 54.33~60.63 in
• Tail Rotor Dia: 260 mm / 10.24 in
• Gear Ratio : 1: (7.75~9.5) : 4.668 (.60~.90)
• Full equipped weight : 5000 g / 10.50 lb

My Personal Raptors:

R60V2 #1 (3D with 90 mod):

Futaba 148DP PCM Rx, BC-6 Glitch counter, Hunter Alpine antenna, 1700SCR battery, (3)Futaba 9252 digital servos, (1)HS525 throttle servo, Futaba GY-501 gyro with 9205 servo, Futaba GV-1 governor set at 1600 and 1800 rpm, Ultimate Switch harness, OS91SXH with Enya#4 running 20% synthetic, TT90 clutch and bell, Helihut Muffler, Hayes header tank, Kalt fuel filters and shutoff clips, Uniflow tank setup, TT glow plug extension, 8.5:1 gear ratio via 11 tooth pinion, V30 Perry Pump, Mr.Carbon Frames & Boom Supports & tail control rod & H and V fins, aluminum A Arms and Oval flybar links, aluminum H fin clamp, KSJ Boom support bridge, MinAir Pro2 paddles and flybar weights, MS680 3D Carbon Main blades, NHP97 carbon tailblades, Boomstrike.com vinyl canopy stickers.

Initial Impressions: The basic design follows the Raptor 30 which is a rip-off of the Bergen Intrepid. Same head, pitch and cyclic setup. There are some innovations, notably the aluminum and plastic frame construction. Frame layout bears a resemblance to the Robbe Millennium with its stacked, variable width straight sideplates. Assembly is straightforward although the instruction manual, identical to the R30, leaves much to be desired. Especially the first time assembler will have a hard time making sense out of the pictures on several steps. But then again if the manual was perfect I would have nothing to do at work all day.
Now while the design and engineering concepts are valid, the actual implementation left much to be desired. The initial kits and ARFs (called SE version) had serious quality control problems. Especially the plastic for the tailrotor gears and the main rotor head block was brittle and often warbed. Reports of in flight failures began to show up on the Net and in Newsgroups.
ACE/TT finally responded to the barrage of complaints and introduced the version 2 (V2) in mid July 2001. All kits and ARFs were upgraded and current owners of the SE version can get the new parts free of charge. The free upgrade includes all 5 tailgears (now white in color), main rotor headblock (silver paint in hole), two new tailhub setscrews (pointy tips) and a new Autorotation bearing (has sets of three small rollers).
With these upgrades the R60V2 finally came into it's own right. The tailgears don't strip as easily or in flight, the new headblock eliminated many vibration issues and the autohub doesn't lock up after a few flights.

Upgrades and Changes

There were a list of problem upon introduction of the R60SE:

1. Main Rotor Headblock drilled off center causing vibration.
2. Main Rotor Head plastic brittle causing failure of head assembly and destruction of helicopter.
3. Plastic A arms and flybar control oval links plastic brittle breaking the ball link causing loss of control.
4. Red tailrotor gears brittle, cracking and stripping in flight causing loss of tailrotor control.
5. Autorotation one-way bearing locking up in flight reducing autorotation capability.
6. Main rotor blades warped and way out of balance causing vibration, pitchy forward flight and tracking errors.
7. Torque tube ends inadequately glued into tube causing loss of taildrive.
8. Clutch to clutch liner clearance excessive causing clutch shoe failures.
9. Ball link balls screws too short causing balls to rip out of material and loss of control.
10. ARF - setscrews inadequately tightened and not loctited causing loss of tailrotor drive/control

Due to the aforementioned problems, TT/ACE have come out with some improved/changed parts. This is good. What is bad is that there is no identifying marks on the new parts so until the suppy chain is purged, the old and new parts are intermixed. This, iaw Mr. Murphy, will bite somebody in the butt. Here is a list of changed parts:

1. Red tail drive gears - new ones are white.
2. Red big drive gear - instead of 4 holes it now has reinforced two holes.
3. Spindle - Is now 1.5 mm longer so the extra shims are no longer required. No markings differentiate between long and short.
4. A Arms - Cannot tell the difference except the new ones only break half the time when installing.
5. Oval Links - See above.
6. Autorotation one-way bearing - new one has different bearing (triple sets of small rollers vice one set of large).
7. Head Block - Center hole a little smaller for better centering. Silver paint in Jesus bolt hole.
8. Remolded Landing gear - holds canopy centered but still breaks often. No marks.
9. Tail drive Torque tube - Improved glue on the ends, no markings.

--- Here are a few basic, notable items that apply to both the Kit and the ARF: ---

• Most of the 2mmx8mm selfthreading screws are too short. They can pull out of their holes. Use TT part #PV0230 2mmx14mm screws (one bag). You may have to shorten a few to prevent them poking into regions they shouldn't and drill the holes deeper in a few places.
• The elevator arm links (BK0335) unidirectional. The #1 or #2 molded in the plastic goes towards the mainshaft (towards each other). This is NOT written in the manual. In any case, the A links are VERY brittle and will break at the top. Inspect this!
• Speaking of unidirectional, the TT ball links also go on only one way. Pushing them on the other way may cause breakage. It is 'highly' recommended to replace them with Rocket City links.
• The pins in the taildrive shafts / tail gears have a setscrew. Many ARFs' are not loctited. Loss of taildrive will result if the pin falls out. Open the tailcase and inspect, loctite the setscrew.
• The 60 uses 5mm main blade bolts and 16mm spacing. Use JRP9700691 - BLADE SPACER WITH BOLTS (U$ 8) for 12mm blades and 4mm blade bolts. Bad news is that many 60 blades have 4mm bolts and 14mm roots. Make sure your aftermarket blades fit.
• The TT70 engine is getting good reports. Try a Enya #3 or #4 plug. Main needle 3.5 turns out, low needle 4.5 turns from fully closed.
• The mainshaft has a 12mm diameter. So you can't use other makers swashplate.
• There is a proper way and an improper way to install the following parts. If they are installed wrong, they are prone to breakage.
  
  1. Elevator Arm Link & Washout Link:
     Look closely at both sides of the part. On one side, you will find a small number molded in the part. This number needs to be TOWARD the ball as you pop it in place.
  2. Flybar Control Rod:
     On this part, you will also find a small number. If it is a "1" it goes AWAY from the ball as you pop it in place. If it is a "2" it goes TOWARD the ball.

Upgrades and Modifications

1. Metal Headblock
2. O Ring Dampeners
3. CF Tail Servo and Boom supports
4. Gear Ratios
5. Engine choices
6. Frame Brace
7. Main and Tail Blades
8. Metal A arms

• 1-1 Upper Frame Assy.
  
  - RTFM and do 1-1-1 and 1-1-2 first.
  - Loctite the bolts(2)going into the metal frame spacers(6).
  - Loctite the nut(8) to the cross member.
  - Install some washers on the bolts(1).
  





• 1-1-1 Upper Bearing Assy.
  
  - Ensure the bearing(1)is smooth and lubricated.
  - Use a tiny drop of CA to hold the bearing(1) in the case(2).
  



• 1-1-2 Pinion Gear Subassy.
  
  - Dig up the clutch from the 5-1-1 bag 'J'. Temporarily install the clutch(6) onto the fan(5) for better handling. Wrap one layer of electrical tape around the clutch. Use 20 min epoxy, JB weld/JB Quick (recomended) or thick CA to glue the liner(12) into the clutch bell(13). Slide the clutch(6) with the tape into the clutch bell(13) to set the proper clutch/liner gap. Let dry overnight and then use sandpaper to smooth out the liner joint gap.
  - After the liner is installed in the clutch, balance the assy.
  - Make sure the bearings(1,4,5) are smooth and lubricated.
  - Loctite the two setscrews(2) in the hex start adapter(8. Make sure one engages the flat spot on the shaft.
  
  



• 1-1-3 Pitch Guide L Subassy.
  
  - Nothing noteworthy.





• 1-1-4 Pitch Guide R Subassy.
  
  - Nothing noteworthy.



• 1-2 Lower Frame Assy.
  
  - Again, RTFM and do steps 1-2-1 thru 1-2-4 first.
  - All bolts(2,7,4) going into the metal frame members should be loctited.
  - Except the bolts holding in the lower bearing assy.(14) as these need to be adjusted later.
  - Enlarge the holes for the fueltank grommets(8) in the lower plastic frame(11) by one mm to prevent fuel foaming.
  - Note that the engine mount(9) installs with the large hole on top. It is optional to wait until the engine/clutch/fan assy is complete and to bolt the engine to the mount first before installing in the frame.
  - It is recommended to install washers under all bolts going into the mainframe to prevent damage to the aluminum and plastic frames.
  - The manual also shows a frame spacer(1) above the fueltank. This is included in some kits and not in others. Guess it's optional. If the framespacer is not in the kit, look for two bolts and locnuts.
  



• 1-2-2 Tail Drive Unit Subassy.
  
  - Check that the bearings(1,3) are smooth and lubricated.
  - The bearings (4,5,6) may wobble on the shaft if the holes are not drilled in the center. A little wobble is ok but anything bigger calls for new gears.
  - The bearings(1) fit tightly on gear(5). Shave off some of the ridges on the gear and then hand press the bearings on.
  - The bearings(1,3) may fit too tight in the bearing holders(8,9). This can make the bearings notchy. Check after joining the bracket(8,9) halves and grind out the holes if necessary.
  - If the gearmesh between the gears(4,5) is too tight, shave some plastic off the shoulder of gear(5). Check that the gear does not interfere with the brackets(8,9) after adjustment.
  - Carefully inspect the white drive gears(5,4,6) for any damage. Do not use the old style red gears as these gears are somewhat fragile and may strip. Some owners lubricate them with grease or silicone spray. In any case, replace if the tailblades touch the ground.
  - Make very sure that the setscrews(2) to hold the pins(11) in the gears (4,6) are tight and loctited. You can install aftermarket rollpins instead or get some more setscrews and use two of them back to back.
  



• 1-2-3 Cooling Fan Casing Subassy.
  
  - Fan shroud extension for better cooling is optional.
  





• 1-2-4 Fuel Tank Assy.
  
  - Throw away the included fuelline(1) and use black hayes line (available at Tower and other LHS) for the clunk line.
  - Make sure there are actually holes in the fuel nipples on the tank and the plug(2).
  - Lube the fuel nibble(2) so it slides easier into the rubber gasket(3).
  



• 1-3 Main Frame Assy.
  
  - Do step 1-3-1 first - RTFM.
  - Install washers under all the bolts(1).
  - Loctite all bolts going into the metal frame members.
  - Loctite the body fitting pins(3).
  



• 1-3-1 Rod Guide Collar Subassy.
  
  - Nothing noteworthy



• 1-4 Installation Of Servo Frame.
  
  - Optionally use a tiny drop of CA on the screws(2).
  - Inspect the entire assy for loose / missing items.
  



• 1-5 Installation Of Pitch Frame.
  
  - RTFM and do steps 1-5-1 thru 1-5-5 first.
  - Make sure you install the collars(14,15).
  - Loctite bolts(3,2,4) ensureing no loctite contaminates the bearings.
  - The setscrews in the hex start adapter are inaccessible after the pitch arm is installed. Look at the pitch arm and drill a 3mm hole in the side of the arm so an allen wrench can be inserted to reach the hex adapter setscrews. Drill approximately in the center between the two bearings in the large flat area.
  



• 1-5-1 Aileron Lever Subassy.
  
  - For some strange reason TT used screws(1) that are TOO SHORT! Replace these screws(1) with M2x10 or M2x12 for safety reasons. This continues throughout the kit so buy a bunch.
  - Use a tiny drop of CA on the screws(1).
  - Check to ensure the bearings(2) are smooth and lubricated.
  





• 1-5-2 Elevator Parallel Lever Subassy.
  
  - Replace the screw(1) with a longer one.
  - Use a tiny drop of CA on the screw(1).
  



• 1-5-3 Elevator Control Lever Subassy.
  
  - Check to endure bearings(2) are smooth and lubricated.
  - Replace the screw(1) with a longer one.
  - Note there are two balls on this screw(1).
  - Use a tiny drop of CA on the screw(1).
  



• 1-5-4 Pitch Control Frame Subassy.
  
  - Check to endure bearings(2,3) are smooth and lubricated.
  - Replace the screw(1) with a longer one.
  - Use a tiny drop of CA on the screw(1).
  - See 1-5 section about drilling the hole to gain access to the hex start adapter set screws.
  - Make sure the pitcharm doesn't rub against the raised pitch markings on the frame. Get rid of the excess plastic if it does.
  





• 1-5-5 Elevator Control Arm Subassy.
  
  - WARNING: Look closely at both sides of the part. On one side, you will find a small number molded in the part. This number needs to be TOWARD the ball as you pop it in place. Failure to do it this way may cause the arm(2) to fracture at the ball end.
  - TT distributed free replacement arms after many reports of fractures.
  - The elevator arms are fragile and underdesigned for the stresses of a 60 size heli. It is highly recommended that they be replaced with optional, aftermarket aluminum arms which inlude Rocket City ball links.
  - If you are too cheap for the U$40 aluminum arms, you can improve the original links. Cut off the top 1/4 inch of the link, pilot drill a small hole and then use 2mm or 2-56 threaded rod to install a short ball link. If you have lots of money, you can get JR's aluminum, BB raced arms for about U$75.
  



• 1-6 Installation Of Main Shaft.
  
  - RTFM and do step 1-6-3 first. Then step 1-6-1 and step 1-6-2.
  - Use oil and 600 sandpaper to polish the top half of the mainshaft(5) so all the components slide easily. Don't polish the section that fits into the headblock.
  - The mainshaft(5) has three holes. The center hole is NOT in the center. The short distance between outer and center hole goes downward. This is important because of the Lock Ring(6).
  - The Lock Ring(6) is installed all the way up against the bottom of the top mainshaft bearing. The ring has TWO socketscrews(2) which engage in the two holes in the mainshaft and must be loctited. If the holes do not line up, check to make sure the main shaft is installed correctly.
  - BTW, the mainshaft is 12mm. The only aftermarket swashplate that may fit is from the Imperio and will cost some serious $$.
  - Heed when it says not to overtighten the bolt(4). It will distort the collar and the one-way bearing will lock up even more often than normal.
  - You can replace the fully threaded bolt(4) with a shanked one for greater strength. A Raptor 30 4mm mainblade bolt is the right size.
  - The maingear picture shows 4 washers under the auto clutch bolts. They are not included and are not shown in step 1-6-3.
  - After the whole mess is installed, adjust the gearmesh by moving the lower bearing assy. Loctite the lower bearing assy bolts after adjustment is complete.
  





• 1-6-1 Wash Out Subassy.
  
  - Check to ensure the bearings(3) are smooth and lubricated.
  - The selftapping screws(1) are too short. Replace with M2x10 or M2x12 screws.
  - The wash out links(6) are very fragile. Take great care when installing on the balls. Look closely at both sides of the part. On one side, you will find a small number molded in the part. This number needs to be TOWARD the ball as you pop it in place.
  



• 1-6-2 Swash Plate Subassy.
  
  - Loctite the bolts going into the metal part of the swashplate, use a tiny bit of CA on the ones going into the plastic arms.
  - Lube the swashplate with teflon oil after installing all the balls.
  - Again, the bolts(1,2) are on the short side. A little longer ones would be prudent.
  



• 1-6-3 Main Gear Subassy.
  
  - The auto rotation clutch bearing(1) is packed full of grease. This is a no no. Wash it out with solvent, alcohol or brake cleaner. Anything to get the grease out. Then use thin teflon oil or ATF to lube it.
  - Make sure you have the new upgrade bearing. It is identified by having sets of three small rollers instead of just big rollers. The new bearing comes with a new sleeve, don't mix old and new sets.
  - The heli is flyable with a locked hub but autorotations will be a bit harder.
  - The gray maingear has a raised edge around the center on one side. This ridge goes up.
  - There is a new red tail drive gear(3) out. It is much beefier around the hub with reinforced bolt holes. If the hub only has two holes in it, it's the new one.
  - Loctite the four bolts(5) going into the hub.
  





• 2-1 Rotor Head Assy.
  
  - TT/ACE Corrections:
  1. The distance for the two pushrods should be 43mm instead of 42mm.
  2. There are four M4 x 3mm set screws furnished instead of two. (No. 9 on the parts list). The paddles should be locked on both sides with set screws.
  3. Following are two typos in the assembly text.
  On the fourth line from the end, No. 35 Collars should read No. 15 Collars.
  On the last line, No. 34 Bushings should read No. 14.
  - There have been reports of head blocks(18) with the main shaft hole drilled off center. The new headblocks fix this. New blocks have silver paint in the Jesus bolt hole.
  - Check the spindle(23) to make sure both ends are drilled and tapped the same depth. If not it may cause an imbalance in the rotor head.
  - Warning: The screws(1) holding the balls(32) to the main blade holders are too short and may pull out in flight. Use longer M2x12 screws.
  - Of course the rest of the screws(1) going into the flybar control arms(17) and mixing levers(21) are too short also. More M2x12 needed here.
  - The new spindles(23) are 1 mm longer than the original ones. TT includes a supplement page for step 2-1 showing the installation of two washers(34) on the outside of the old spindle. This will prevent the grip(16) inner bearings(12) from rubbing on the flap dampeners(25) and causing drag. There are no external marks to distinquish old (short and need two shim washers) and new (1-2mm longer and no shims needed) spindles. Check this when replacing the spindle, installing the shims with the longer spindle will cause rotor head vibrations.
  - The flap dampeners(25)and the spindle(23)have to be greased with a non-petroleum lubricant. Silicone grease or Permatex Tune-Up grease from an automotive store works well. If the spindle gets stuck in the dampeners, expect heavy vibrations during flight.
  - The dampeners(25) are installed with the raised edge outward.
  - The two flybar control oval links(28) are very fragile and may break when snapped on to the balls. On this part, you will also find a small number. If it is a "1" it goes AWAY from the ball as you pop it in place. If it is a "2" it goes TOWARD the ball. Here an aftermarket aluminum replacement unit with Rocket City ball links (U$40) is highly recommended.
  - Check all the bearings(12,8,11) for smoothness and lubrication.
  - Make sure the thrust bearing(13) has the bigger hole disk installed towards the center. Slide both on the spindle(23) and the one that wiggles more has the bigger hole.
  - Grease the thrust bearing(13) with teflon grease.
  - Loctite the 4mm bolts(6) ensuring the bearings are not contaminated by the loctite.
  - In the ACE/TT addendum it reads: The distance for the two pushrods(33,2) should be 43mm instead of 42mm.
  Ron Lund of Rick's makes a very nice double O ring conversion to replace the rubber dampeners. For U$20 this is a very worthwhile upgrade. See the upgrade page.
  
  Flybar Control Paddle/Seesaw Assy.
  
  - Use a ruler to measure that the flybar(24) is centered. Difference should be less than 1 mm.
  - When installing the paddles(30) use the ruler again to ensure both are screwed on an equal amount. Loctite the small setscrews(9) after the paddles are aligned exactly straight with the flybar arms(17) and each other.
  - The mixing levers(21) are installed with the flat side down.
  - Loctite the bolts(4) holding on the mixing levers(21). Don't forget the small washers(5) or the mixing levers(21) will bind.
  - Loctite the setscrews(10) in the flybar control arm(17) and bushing(20).
  - Loctite bolts (3) going into the seesaw hub(19).
  



• 3-1 Tail Assy.
  
  - TT/ACE Correction: The spacing dimensions for the Rod Guides is incorrect. Change the two 265mm distances to 255mm and change the 130mm distance to 145mm.
  - RTFM and do step 3-1-1 first.
  - Just in case: The slots in the boom(6) go forward, the holes are in the back.
  - Install the tail gear box(14) then break out the torque tube(13) and lay it next to the boom. The torque tube bearing(12) should not be in the exact center of the boom to prevent resonant vibrations. A few inches either way are adequate. You can also install two bearings and this will reduce any possible vibrations.
  - Pick the spot where you want the bearing(12) and slide it on using loctite to fix the bearing to the tube. Let the loctite cure.
  - Use a PVC or metal tube to slide the bearing(12) and torque tube(13) into the boom until it is seated in the tail transmission receptacle(27 next page).
  - If a carbon tail control rod will be used, the rod guides(7) need not be used. If they are used, drill out the holes slightly larger to prevent binding up the control rod(5).
  - A aftermarket metal horizontal fin clamp(10) is available. Either one will crease the thin walled tailboom so DO NOT tighten the clamp(10) yet because the tail supports attach to it in step 4-3 and the clamp may have to be moved.
  - Aftermarket carbon horizontal and vertical fins are available (See Pic) as are different color booms.
  





• 3-1-1 Tail Transmission Subassy.
  
  - Check all bearings(1,15,14) for smoothness and lubrication
  - The red tail rotor gears(27,28) werea major weak spot in the heli. The new white gears are much improved. DO NOT USE THE RED GEARS. One blade of grass touching the tailblades and the red gears will strip out.
  - The setscrew that holds in the pin(9) must be tight and loctited. Take the tail apart to check this on ARF models. Install another set scrw behind the first for better security.
  - Some owners grease the gears or use silicone spray. Can't hurt and it may make the gears less noisy.
  - When threating in the tail pitch control fork(20) a tiny drop of CA will hold it more securely.
  - The screw(1) holding the ball(2) to the pitch slider(22) could also use a bit of that CA. Don't use a longer screw here or it will go through the slider and catch on the shaft.
  - Make sure the tail pitch control slider(20) freely moves along the shaft(29). Use teflon oil.
  - There is the possiblity that the tailhub(19) is not symmetric. The center hole may be slightly off center which can cause tail vibrations. Measure from the edge of the hole to the end of the hub. If the sides are different get a new hub or buy a U$1000 lathe to fix it.
  - There are two holes in the tailshaft(29) into which the long M3x18 setscrews(10)from the tail blade holders go. These setscrews(10) have a blunt end and will not seat into the cone shaped shaft holes. File the setscrews into a pointy tip so they will sink into the holes in the shaft(29). The new setcrews are pointy from the factory.
  - While you're messing with the big setscrews(10) check to make sure they are the same length. Grind down the longer one if necessary.
  - Carefully clean the setscrews(10) and use a generous amount of loctite to hold them in.
  - Ensure the tail pitch control links(21) can pivot freely after installing the pins(33).
  - Use a longer M2x12 screw for attaching the ball(30) to the pitch control lever(24)
  - Heed the last line in the text on the manual page.
  



• 4-1 Installation Of Rotor Head.
  
  - The head block is not made of the worlds most expensive plastic so don't overtighten the Jesus bolt(3). Snug with no play is good.
  - Use a Raptor 30 mainblade bolt to replace the threaded Jesus bolt(3).
  - A coating of CA on the mainshaft when installing the rotor head may prevent a little wiggle if the hole is slightly oversized.
  - Be careful when popping on the oval links to the swashplate balls. The ovals are very brittle. Of course you installed the good aftermarket aluminum oval links with rocket city ball links - right?
  



• 4-2 Installation Of Landing Skit.
  
  - Why does TT show the pic of the installation before the assembly? Who knows but you have to do step 4-2-1 first.
  - The gear is brittle. Better be able to do smooth landings because everything else will require a new gear set along with other repair parts.
  - MinAir Tuff struts are much better and hold up to much more abuse. Only a few dollars more they are a recommended upgrade.
  - If you want to practice autorotations, don't install the silicone tubing on the skits. They will catch and tip the heli over. They are good for flying of off concrete and such.
  





• 4-2-1 Skid Subassy.
  
  - Just order the MinAir Tuff Struts in white and be done with it. The TT skids will break soon.
  - Don't forget to glue in the tip and end caps(4) or they will not be there after the first flight.
  



• 4-3 Installation Of Tail Assembly.
  
  - Heads Up, step 4-3-1 comes first, no kidding.
  - When sliding in the boom, manually turn the main gear until the torque tube slips into it's receptacle in the frame. Firmly seat the boom all the way to the front until the slots in the boom engage in the frame.
  - Pretty aftermarket carbon boom supports are available.
  - Sources said the factory location for the boom supports is optimal and should not be changed.
  



• 4-3-1 Tail Support Subassy.
  
  - Carbon boom supports are lighter and prettier.
  



• 5-1 Installation Of Engine.
  
  - The Fan hub is setup for the std thread of OS, TT and Webra engines. The YS uses a 8mm threated crankshaft so you'll have to run a 8mm tap through the hub and then bolt it on. The holes in the side frame may have to be elongated a bit to correctly align the YS engine.
  - With a front intake muffler the canopy will fit without cutting. You need to loose about 4 inches when using a center port muffler.
  - The Curtis Muscle Pipe will fit albeit it's close. You will have to move the left boom support brace to the inside of the frame to give clearance for the pipe.
  - Use 5 minute epoxy to make a gasket between the engine and muffler manifolds.
  - The stock TT muffler is not bad and quite useable.
  - See the upgrade page for bigger engine choices and required mods.
  



• 5-1-1 Engine Subassy.
  
  - The plastic fan will most likely be distorted and wobbly. You can try heating with a heatgun and tweaking a bit but it will still not run true. It really doesn't affect anything as long as the fan is in balance.
  - Be careful when balancing the fan, the threads in the hub may misalign the hub on the balancer and screw up the balance. - For some reason the fan does not have provisions for the GV-1 governor magnets. They were there in the Raptor 30 fan. Somebody forget?
  - The Fan/hub/clutch is the same design as the 30 although a bit bigger. It still has the same problem of the clutchshoes rubbing on the hub. Relieve the hub or add a shim to give clearance.
  
  - Temporarily bolt the clutch to the fan and balance it. Mark which holes were used for the bolts(2).
  - Use the original washer that comes with the engine under the fan hub (4). If the washer is too big it will eat into the front engine bearing and cause lots of drag. The TT70 engine washer is too big. A 7/16 circlip with the ears ground off will work great.
  - Don't use a piston locking tool. Don't grap the fan with a towel either. Open the back of the engine and stick in a toothbrush handle and then tighten the propnut(3) with loctite on it.
  



• 5-2 Installation Of Servos.
  
  - First junk all the TT ball links and replace them with Rocket City links.
  - This is where Ball Link pliers really show their worth.
  - Make sure you install the rubber servo grommets and the brass eyelids into the servos. Failure to do this will result in drastically reduced lifespan of the avionics components.
  - Route the wires carefully to avoid interference with moving parts and cutting by sharp edges. If using zipties, don't tighten too much or the servo wires will be cut. Two sided 1/4 inch velcro is really handy for securing all the excess wire.
  





• 5-3 Installation Of Servos - Pt.2
  
  - The throttle and pitch servo arms may interfere with each other at maximum throw. You can't use a big wheel for the pitch because the throttle servo sits higher in the frame. Check this carefully at full throws. You can add the two metal plates underneath the center servos to make them sit out further.
  - With the engine throttle arm turned all the way CLOCKWISE the carb is CLOSED. Full power is CCW.
  - Try to set up the throttle servo travel ATV equal to both sides and at less than 100%. You want the throttle servo to be faster than the pitch servo so the engine response doesn't lag the blade pitch.
  - Look at the elevator control rods. The rod going from the arm next to the mainshaft to the arm on the pitch arm pivot may hit the frame during certain cyclic/pitch conditions. Very slightly bent the rod upwards 1mm to give clearance.
  





• 5-4 Receiver and Gyro Istallation.
  
  - Don't even think about using twosided tape to mount the avionics. The vibrations will destroy the equipment in short order. Use at least 1/2 inch worth of foam rubber.
  - The battery is very happy underneath the radio tray. The Rx and gyro amp live on top. Two sided velcro 1 inch wide is perfect to hold all the stuff to the tray.
  - A small enough gyro (GY-401 or 501) will fit on top of the servo frame in between the pitch arm and the hook for the rubber band. This will eliminate wires running to the back.
  - Use only 'gyro approved' sticky tape to mount it. Good stuff includes the CSM tape, Telebee tape and ZEAL green sticky gel.
  





• 5-5 Body Installation.
  
  - You can paint the tubberware canopy but it's a real pain and takes effort. It's easier to get some of the aftermarket vinyl decals that are available in all kinds of colors from boomstrike.com.
  - Look at the top of the canopy and cut some clearance for the swashplate control rods and start shaft.
  - Some people cut out the bottom front of the canopy to let air out in backwards flight and to increase engine cooling in fwd flight. Your choice.
  





• 5-5-1 Body Subassy.
  
  - The canopy clip(4) holds fairly well but may come loose during backwards flight. You can install a small screw on one side of the clip so the head of it engages the recess in the landing gear strut.
  - The cutting line on the clear canopy is not exact. You will have to trim several times to line it up with the canopy.
  






• 5-6 Main Rotor Blades.
  
  - As you see the blades use M5 bolts and nuts. This is popular overseas but new here in the US.
  - To use 4mmx12mm mainblades, buy the JR spacer JRP9700691 for about U$10.
  - Unfortunatly many blades have 14mm roots. So be careful when buying aftermarket blades to make sure they fit.
  - Yes, buy aftermarket blades. The stock woodies are ok for hovering and paint stirring but nothing else. You have to balance them before use. See the Hints&Tips page for a quicky procedure.
  - V Blades and MS make blades especially for the Raptor 60. Not cheap at U$125 but very good blades.
  - The std size blades for the Raptor 60 are 660mm. Up to 680mm can be used but nothing bigger than that. Hovering rpm of 1600 and aerobatic rpm of 1750 to 1800 are suggested.
  

Credits:
Burt Poppenga
Tony Groothuizen
Raj Patel
Michael Prewitt
The TT/ACE Newsgroup
The Raptor HeliList
rec.models.rc.helicopter Newsgroup
B&B Hobbies
Rick's RC Helis
HeliProz
Rotory Model Forum
RCOnline Heli Forum
and all you unnamed Beta Testers out there in the wild.

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